Lead Roofs, Valleys & Flashings in Newcastle.
Code-correct lead roofing, valleys, soakers, flashings and snowboards, formed by hand on site. Lead work is where most roofs fail first, so it's worth having done by someone who does it properly.
Why lead fails — and it's rarely the lead
Lead itself lasts a century or more. What fails is how it was fitted. Runs made too long crack from thermal movement, because lead expands and contracts more than most people expect. Too thin a code splits. And mortar fillets used instead of proper stepped flashings — the cheap shortcut — crack out within a few years and let water straight in.
- Lead valleys between roof slopes
- Chimney flashings: front apron, stepped sides and back gutter
- Abutment flashings where a roof meets a wall
- Soakers under slate and tile at abutments
- Lead-covered flat roofs, bay tops and porch roofs
- Snowboards and parapet gutters
- Dormer cheeks and tops
Doing it properly
We use the correct lead code for the application, keep runs within the recommended lengths with proper laps and expansion joints, and dress everything by hand on site. Chimney flashings are formed as a front apron, stepped side flashings with soakers, and a back gutter — not a smear of mortar. If your stack needs work at the same time, see chimney repairs.
- Free survey — existing leadwork and the cause of any failure assessed
- Fixed written quote with lead codes specified
- Safe access set up
- Old lead and any mortar fillets stripped out
- Substrate checked and timber renewed where it's rotted
- New lead cut, bossed and dressed by hand to size
- Correct laps, clips and expansion joints formed
- Covering made good around the new work, patination oil applied
What it costs
Lead is priced by weight, so the code and the area drive the cost. A chimney flashing set is a fixed job. A full valley or a lead flat roof is a bigger number — but it's a fifty-to-hundred-year answer rather than a ten-year one.
What's included
Every lead job we quote includes the following.
- Free survey and fixed written quote
- Correct lead code specified for the application
- Safe access — scaffold where the work needs it
- Old lead and mortar fillets fully stripped out
- Timber substrate checked and renewed where rotten
- Lead cut, bossed and dressed by hand on site
- Proper laps, clips and expansion joints
- Stepped flashings and soakers, not mortar fillets
- Patination oil applied to prevent white staining
- All waste removed and old lead responsibly disposed of
- Written workmanship guarantee
Related work
- Chimney repointing while the flashings are off
- Valley slates or tiles renewed alongside a new valley
- Parapet gutter lining renewed
- Dormer roof re-covered
What lead code do I need?
It depends on the application — flashings, valleys and flat roof work all call for different thicknesses, and run length affects it too. We specify the code in the quote rather than leaving it vague.
Why has my lead flashing cracked?
Almost always because the run was made too long without an expansion joint. Lead moves a surprising amount with temperature, and if it can't move it splits.
Is a mortar fillet acceptable instead of lead?
No. It's a shortcut that cracks out within a few years and lets water straight into the wall. If you have one, it's worth replacing before it causes damp.
Why has white staining appeared on my new lead?
That's carbonate forming on new lead, and it washes down onto the slate below. Patination oil applied at installation prevents it — we apply it as standard.
Can lead be repaired or does it need replacing?
Small splits can be lead-welded. If the lead has failed because the original run was too long, patching it just moves the problem, so replacement is the honest answer.
Need this doing?
Book a free roof survey and we'll give you a fixed price in writing — no pressure, no obligation.
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